One Tough Land Rover Differential
Toyota 3rd Member Installation

This is easier if you remove the diff cover from the axle housing first. With a saw, or a suitable cut off wheel, cut off the cover leaving about .5” of the stock cover. This will leave you with a nice place to center your new sewer cap diff cover to weld it on.

Next is the bolt pattern and size of the bolts that hold in the carrier housing: There is a template provided that allows marking, drilling and welding the axle housing by use of a transfer punch to mark the differential mounting holes on Land Rover housing. Knock out all the Land Rover studs except the two located at two o’clock and seven o’clock. Bolt the template down firmly to the axle housing using these studs and punch mark and drill the new Toyota holes in the housing with the drill dit provided in the kit. Make sure you drill as straight as you can. Now put the 10 supplied 5/16-24 screws into these new holes and bolt them down using the non-nyloc nuts that come in the kit. Tack weld these bolts to the housing with about a dime size tack on each side of the bolt head. Unbolt and remove the template and knock out the remaining Rover studs.

NOTE: For the upper and lower diff mounting bolts closest to the ring gear face, you will need to build up material here as the ring gear notch on the Rover housing is too big. Weld up the slot using low power and alternating from one notch to the other allowing the weld to cool. Using the template as a guide, grind down the metal to fit.

Bolt the diff housing to the differential and make sure it fits. If a bolt is a bit crooked not to worry, put a couple of the sacrificial (non-nyloc) nuts on the bolt and tap it into place. (Trust me if I could find the proper press in studs I would).

Now flip the housing over and install the sewer cap. Push it on (with a hammer) over the remaining ring from when the stock cover was cut off. The oil fill-hole should be slightly below centerline of the axle housing. Once it is on as far as it will go, weld the cover on fully so as to prevent leaking. I like weld around the seam three times.

Clean everything up nicely and install the third member using a gasket from Toyota and a good gasket maker like “Right Stuff”
A note: if you use an E Locker from Toyota there will be additional cutting to the axle housing and four third member holes farthest to the passenger side of the housing will need to be marked with the holes marked “E” in the template, after which two will need to be tapped for the proper threads (5/16”-18) with the tap provided. The two remaining holes are through holes like the other 8.

The notch for the shifting fork lines up nicely with the two furthest Rover holes in the housing on the passenger side of the housing. Use the Toyota E Locker gasket as a template.

As for the spindles.
The Rover axles are 1.25”, the Toyota 30 spline Axles are 1.285”. The bores of late model Rover spindles are about 1.28”. To fit the axles or Toyota CV’s the spindles will need to be bored slightly, usually .005” per side or, .010” on the diameter. This will not weaken the spindle.
The front spindles will need to have a bushing pressed in, in place of the needle bearing and the bronze thrust bushing on the spindle. The steel supporting these two features will need to be removed in the lathe. Face the back of the spindle down to the pilot diameter that locates the spindle in the steering knuckle. Rovertracks provides this service if required.

In front applications the swivel balls will need to be bored to 1.375” where the axle seal is. The swivel ball seal can be retained if you like.
The stub axle seals in both the front and rear are omitted.

Full instructions and of course full customer support is always available from me directly (303) 506-9439. Now enjoy the strongest diff you can fit into a Rover housing!!

Thanks
Keith